While trekking among the cliffs of the Sahyadri, you often encounter shrines of many deities alongside forts. On a visit to Vasota Fort, one must not miss Nageshwar Cave. A tour of Vasota feels incomplete without visiting Nageshwar. However, since this entire area falls within the Sahyadri Tiger Reserve and Koyna Wildlife Sanctuary, night stays are prohibited. As a result, the full Vasota–Nageshwar circuit—an arduous 12-hour trek—must be completed in one day. Although there are several traditional approaches to Nageshwar, two well-established routes reach the fort area: one from Bamnanoli near Satara on the plateau (ghat side), and the other from Choravane near Chiplun in the Konkan. Route from Bamnanoli (Satara side) The drivable route is Satara–Kaas–Bamnanoli: Satara to Bamnanoli is 38 km, and Kaas to Bamnanoli is 14 km. ... From here, you cross the Koyna reservoir by boat towards Vasota after paying the Forest Department’s entry fees. Via this route, Bamnanoli → Met Indavali → Vasota → Nageshwar → Vasota → Met Indavali → Bamnanoli can be comfortably done in a day—but you should arrive in Bamnanoli the previous night. You can stay at the Bhairavanath Temple in Bamnanoli. Important points: This entire area falls under the Sahyadri Tiger Reserve, so entry to Vasota is not permitted during the monsoon (from 15 June to 15 October), and also on 31 December and 1 January. Entry timings for the sanctuary are 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., and due to permit formalities the trek cannot realistically start before 8:00 a.m. From Bamnanoli, a 12-seater boat to Met Indavali costs ₹3,540/– (the same total whether for 1 or 12 people). If two small groups try to combine, boat operators often object. In addition, the Forest Department charges ₹30 per person for entry, ₹150 per boat, and ₹300 for a guide. There is a separate camera fee. If you are doing the Bamnanoli – Met Indavali – Vasota – Nageshwar – Met Indavali circuit and fail to return to Bamnanoli before sunset, the Forest Department levies a fine, and boat operators may also demand extra payment. Crossing the Koyna reservoir by boat to reach Met Indavali takes about an hour. From Met Indavali, the trail behind the Forest Office passes roofless Hanuman and Ganapati shrines. Since there is no potable water anywhere except at Nageshwar, fill up at the stream here. After crossing the stream, a steep ascent through dense forest brings you to the Nageshwar junction in about 1 hour 30 minutes. The path to the right goes to Nageshwar; the straight, ascending path leads to Vasota Fort. From the base at Met Indavali, you reach Nageshwar in around 2 hours 30 minutes on a clear footpath. Route from Choravane (Konkan side) If you stay overnight at the Vitthal Temple in Choravane, you can comfortably complete the circuit Choravane → Nageshwar → Vasota → Nageshwar → Choravane in one day. Chiplun to Choravane is 30 km. From the Vitthal Temple, a track climbs to a plateau on the hill in front of the village. There are steps on this plateau leading toward the Nageshwar pinnacle; if you have a private vehicle, you can drive up to these steps, 3 km away. Using a private vehicle saves about 1.5 hours of walking and allows you to finish the trek in roughly 10 hours—provided you start early in the morning. There is no water on this route except at Nageshwar, so carry sufficient water. With prior notice at the shop opposite the Vitthal Temple in Choravane, arrangements can be made for tea, snacks, and meals. Contact: Pramod Jadhav – 8275626510. It’s advisable to inform him in advance and seek help if you plan to take this route. From Choravane, you get fine views of Vasota Fort and the Nageshwar pinnacle. Following the Choravane route—stone steps, footpaths, steep inclines, iron ladders, rock-cut steps, and slippery sections—you reach the plateau opposite the Nageshwar pinnacle in about 2 hours 30 minutes. From here, the right-hand trail goes to Vasota Fort, and the left descends to the cave at the base of the Nageshwar pinnacle. A sign on the plateau points toward the Nageshwar kund (cistern); a rightward descent leads to it. A protective mesh covers the kund to prevent litter, and it holds water year-round. From the plateau, after a few steps you reach the base of the Nageshwar pinnacle. This path is also well-trodden. Inside the belly of the pinnacle lies a large natural cave that can accommodate 25–30 people, and it contains a Shiva Linga. Water drips onto the Linga from the cave ceiling throughout the year. Older descriptions mention images of Shiva and Parvati here, but at present there are no idols other than the Linga; a couple of broken Nandi statues lie beside it. From the cave you can see Vasota Fort and the valley of the Vasishthi River. On each Monday of the month of Shravan and on Mahashivratri, thousands of devotees visit Nageshwar. Having climbed steeply from Choravane to the Nageshwar pinnacle, it’s wise to rest for a while in the cave. From Nageshwar you can clearly see Vasota in front and, closer to you, a small spire known as “Khota Nageshwar” (False Nageshwar). Most fort enthusiasts take darshan at Nageshwar first and then proceed to Vasota—but you must be ready for a strenuous day. The route from Choravane is generally more convenient—especially if you have a private vehicle—being both less expensive and less time-consuming. Note: This trek is physically demanding; plan it only after careful consideration.
© Suresh Nimbalkar