In Maharashtra, the tradition of building temples on hilltops or within mountainous terrains has been in practice since ancient times. One such remarkable temple, discovered atop Hidimba Tekdi near Mansar, has recently come to light through archaeological excavations. While traveling from Nagpur to Ramtek on the Nagpur–Jabalpur Highway, about 45 km from Nagpur, there's a junction at Mansar that leads to Ramtek, which lies a further 7 km away. Approximately 1 km east of Mansar village, atop Hidimba Tekdi, stand the remains of a grand Shaivites temple complex. The Vakataka dynasty was one of the ancient and prominent royal dynasties of Maharashtra. During the Satavahana era, the present-day Mansar—then known as Pravarapura—was a significant city. ... In 250 CE, the Vakatakas defeated the Satavahana and brought Vidarbha under their control. Numerous temple remnants from their rule have been unearthed across Vidarbha. During their time, temples were constructed using both stone and bricks. Between 1992 and 2004, archaeological excavations on Hidimba Tekdi revealed four brick temples. Although only partial remains survive, their layout and architectural style offer valuable insight into their original form. The temples at Mansar are representative of an advanced stage of temple architecture. According to archaeologists, the grand Shaivites temple and one other temple in the group are likely from the Vakataka period, while the remaining two are believed to predate the Vakatakas. The sanctum sanctorum (Garbhagriha) of these temples has a star-shaped plan, which dates them to around the 2nd century CE, making them among the earliest known temples of this style. To reach Hidimba Tekdi, one must pass behind the Bodhisattva Nagarjuna Institute in Mansar. On the way up, a large natural lake can be seen behind the hill. Since the hill is not very high, it takes about 10 minutes to reach the top. The summit contains the square-shaped remnants of Buddhist stupas, some built with bricks and possibly forming chaityagruhas (prayer halls). A small cave, likely a meditation shrine, is also located here. Some sculptures are kept under a tin shed for preservation. Shivalay (Shaivites Temple): The main temple remains lie on the western side of Hidimba Tekdi. The temple, made of bricks, consists of a sanctum and a Mandap (hall), with the base constructed in stone. The east-facing temple has a set of steps leading to an Ardhamandap (entrance porch), followed by the Mandap and the sanctum. A wide circumambulatory path surrounds the sanctum and the hall. The upper sections of the temple were likely ornamented and made entirely of bricks. Sculptures found during excavations in the 1970s likely belonged to this temple's sanctum. It is believed that this temple was originally constructed by Vakataka king Pravarasena I, and later renovated by his grandson Pravarasena II in his memory. The renovated shrine may have been called Pravareshwara Devakulasthana (sanctuary of Lord Pravareshwara). Shaivites Temple Group: Another grand brick temple from the Vakataka era, now seen only as a platform, is located on the north western slope of Hidimba Tekdi. The temple appears to have been constructed in two stages. A terrace was built on the hilltop using thick retaining walls, and the temple was then erected on this levelled platform. Surrounding the main shrine on the platform were small image cells (pratimagrihas), each containing niches (konadas). Fragments of sculptures were found in the northern cells, while six lingams were discovered in the western and southern cells, indicating these were dedicated to Shiva. Archaeologist Dr. Arvind Jamkhedkar opines that the temples belonged to the Pashupata sect, a prominent Shaivites tradition. Royal Palace: At the base of Hidimba Tekdi lies the grand brick palace of Vakataka king Pravarasena. The palace includes numerous large and small chambers and was surrounded by a brick fortification wall, with a moat dug around it. Water from the nearby lake behind Hidimba Tekdi was diverted into this moat. During excavations, significant discoveries were made, including royal seals of King Pravarasena and Queen Prabhavatigupta, offering crucial insights into the dynasty’s rule and architecture. Exploring the entire Hidimba Tekdi, including the temples and palace ruins, requires about three hours.
© Suresh Nimbalkar