The Madh–Marve beach on the Western Railway is quite familiar to Mumbaikars. The village of Madh is located on the seashore, about 14 km west of Malad railway station. Just outside this village, on a small hill, stands the Versova or Madh Fort. In the Madh area, there are in total four forts — Madh Kot, Versova or Madh Fort, Erangal bastion, and the bastion on Ambova Island. Of these, the Madh Fort still stands intact, preserving the memory of its former glory. The fort is under the control of the Navy, and general public entry is prohibited, though it can be viewed from the outside. Today, it is considered the most beautiful among all the forts in Mumbai. Its entire fortification wall and bastions are well-preserved. ... From Malad West, BEST bus number 271 takes you 15 km to Madh village. Alighting at the “Fish Market” stop in Madh and walking via Harbadevi Temple (turning right) — or arriving by boat from Andheri and walking left towards the Killeshwar Mahadev Temple — brings you to the rear side of the fort. The road to the fort is tarred, with dense vegetation on both sides. Observing carefully, one finds two wells to the right — one built with solid masonry and the other for storing monsoon water. The Killeshwar Temple is spacious and located right by the shore. Behind this Shiva temple, the walls and bastions of the Versova Fort come into view. Between Versova and Madh lies a small creek about 1,000–1,200 feet wide. At the mouth of this creek, the Portuguese built the fort in the early 16th century. The fort is surrounded by the sea on two sides and land on the other two. The Portuguese used it to monitor the Versova/Marve creek, while in British times, it was used as a prison (today, it is used for filming). A footpath from behind the Mahadev temple leads to the fort wall, where some old Portuguese-era structures and some newer constructions can be seen. Walking along this path lets you circle the fort from the outside, close to the walls and bastions. Since the fort is under the armed forces, entry is not allowed without permission, and photography is prohibited. The bastions are tall, round, and imposing. The fort walls are strong, ranging from 20 to 25 feet in height, with gun embrasures placed at intervals — though without entry, it is impossible to tell if cannons still remain. Inside the walls and bastions, platforms are built at different levels. The fort has two gates in total; the sea-facing one is currently sealed with stones and has a carved serpent motif above it. Circling below the walls along a curved path and climbing a small rise brings you to the second entrance of the Versova Fort. The landward gate is closed, and stairs from the right bastion lead into the fort — but a locked iron gate now bars entry. In front of the fort lies a spacious open ground with tall palm trees. It takes about half an hour to see the fort from outside. In addition, on another hill in Madh village stands the Harbadevi Temple, housing some ancient and noteworthy idols. Madh forms the southern tip of the Portuguese-held island of Salsette. The island had sixty-six villages, hence the name “Sashti” (from the number “sixty-six”), later altered to “Salsette.” The Mahim/Versova creek separated the Mumbai islands from the mainland. Due to trade carried out through this creek, the area held great historical importance. Commercial rivalry between the Portuguese and the British caused lasting tensions. To protect Salsette from sea-borne invasions and to keep watch over the coast, the Portuguese built the Madh Fort in 1600 on a headland jutting into the sea. Later, it was used to challenge British-held Mumbai islands. In 1737, during the Maratha invasion of Vasai, intense naval battles took place around this fort. Records show that Khandoji Mankar, a commander under Chimaji Appa, attacked this fort twice in 1737. That year, although the Marathas captured all of Salsette, they failed to take Bandra and Versova forts — but in the 1739 campaign, the Marathas captured this fort. After the Vasai campaign, this region came under Maratha control, and the Portuguese were expelled. Later, the fort passed into British hands.
© Suresh Nimbalkar